shrimphaus before rescape
exhausted aquasoil

With the caridina shrimp I’m trying to keep the KH around 30 ppm CaCO3 (about 1.7 dKH) by pre-treating Cambridgeshire tap water with a suitable amount of hydrochloric acid (HCl).  The problem is the old aquasoil has been resisting the new water chemistry.  The other problem is the aquasoil is brown/black and the slate is also dark which makes the whole setup kind of dark and the shrimp challenging to see.  I decided to clear out the old aquasoil and replace the active substrate with inert sand.  This was also a good excuse to see how the shrimp population was doing and to clear out and treat any nasty looking pieces of hardscape.  I also figured the foam pieces in the base of the Shrimphaus that were supposed to act as a kind of passive under-substrate filter were probably not actually doing anything useful, so I took those out.

Sand is better than  aquasoil

Replacing the aquasoil as substrate I decided to go with Hugo Kamishi quartz white sand which I picked up from Aquarium Gardens.  This sand has very uniform sized grains from 0.8 mm to 1.2 mm in size which is considerably smaller than the aquasoil spheres.  One pleasant surprise was how much easier it is to plant plants in sand compared to aquasoil.  With aquasoil it is difficult to get the plant to not spontaneously float up again after you install it.  With the sand though, you grip the plant with pinsettes, drop it down into the sand, swoosh around a small bit to get it settled, and you’re good to go.  The aquasoil was also reasonably “mobile” for whatever reason.  It would roll around and down into the deeper parts of the tank and basically not stay where you put it.  The sand doesn’t seem to do that.  I understand that aquasoil has all kinds of nutrient goodies and buffering capacities… yadda yadda yadda, but I think I’d rather just have direct control over what’s happening in the aquarium water.

If you get sand and want it to be chemically inert, you need to be really sure you’re getting quartz and not for example marble or limestone based sand.  These non-quartz sands can potentially leach carbonate into the water raising the pH and KH.  My advice is spend a little more and get a really nice grade of professional aquascaping quartz sand.  

Shrimp love rocks

I got this great book for Christmas:  The Neocaridina Shrimp Handbook – a comprehensive guide by Richard James.  Most of the info in there I was already pretty familiar with, but one piece got my attention, “The one thing neocaridina shrimp do appear to appreciate is good pile of rocks.”  In his experience, for whatever reason, breeding seems more successful when there is a pile of rocks in the tank.  Something about hiding places for the new hatchlings maybe?  In any event I figured let’s go with some piles of rocks.  I got some Wio ‘black venom gravel’ which is nice rounded pieces, most very dark when wet, and built up a few rockpile areas.  One is between the two slate pillars that hold up the river, and another is on the left size keeping the sand away from the pump and heater.  Wio claims these are “pitch black when wet” which in my experience is not quite true… also the odd piece does have some whitish stripes or patches.  Mostly though they are very nice and contrast well with the white quartz sand.  Do shrimp really love rocks?  Difficult to know although they do spend some time in the rockpiles.  I also buried the airstone under the rocks which keeps the airstone from getting scunged over with algae – the bubbles still make it up through the rocks just fine.

New setup with sand and rocks

I got the old Shrimphaus completely cleaned out.  It was actually not so bad… not nearly as nasty as Shrimphaus 1.0 was when I cleaned that out.  The shrimp seemed to mostly take the relocation in stride.  There were one or two that seemed a little traumatised, but ultimately the move went smoothly with no casualties.

The new setup is very similar to the old setup with two slate pillars to hold up the slate river so water flows up from the bottom back left and across the river to the top front right.

Shrimp-friendly filter

shrimp guard and sponge filter
shrimp guard and sponge filter

I used to have a nylon mesh over the pump intake with the idea of keeping shrimp from inadvertently pulled through the pump.  After a while that didn’t seem necessary so I took it off.  Then I had a crop of baby shrimp that just slowly disappeared and got to wondering whether the pump was a factor.  Just in case I installed some aquarium pump sponge around the pump.  I was concerned the sponge would make the pump too big to fit in the restricted space at the back of the Shrimphaus, but seems no problem.  Unintended, but it also occurs that the sponge will be able to act as a sort of ‘mini filter’ in the style of air-lift sponge filters except instead of using rising bubbles to pull water through the sponge the water pump just does that directly.  I figure it can’t hurt and might help.  We’ll see if it gets all crusted over with debris eventually, but so far so good.

Shrimphaus 3.0

Here’s the new look.  I like it!  The shrimp seem pretty happy as well and I expect (hope?) that not having the substrate influencing the water chemistry will provide more stability which is supposed to be important for shrimp 1.

1 Actually, I’m not really convinced stable water parameters are important for shrimp.  This is the common claim but I haven’t seen much direct evidence.

Staurogyne repens is an ‘easy to grow’ and popular aquatic plant.  I have been resisting trying this plant for some reason… too easy, too popular?  Anyway, it has a low growth habit but isn’t a carpeting plant, so seems like it might be right for the Shrimphaus.  I usually prefer potted plants, but at the time could only find S. repens as an in vitro pot, so picked one up from Aquarium Gardens, as grown by Tropica.

Continue reading “Planting Staurogyne repens”

Echinodorus Chrileni not doing well
Echinodorus chrileni v1.0 not doing well

Replanting actually…  I was looking for something that could grow submersed in the back right corner of the Shrimphaus that might be able to break the water surface and grow emersed.  Amazon sword plants (Echinodorus species) are sometimes able to do that and I looked for an intermediate sized one with interesting aspects and came up with Echinodorus chrileni.  I first picked up a pot from Pro-shrimp grown in rockwool by Aquafleur about 8 months ago.  The plant arrived in great shape, but then gradually rotted away over several months, with no evidence of transitioning to the submersed growth form.  This was back when I was using the Asta point-source lighting that was at the exact opposite corner of the tank so the spot for the chrileni was pretty shaded.  When I switched over the Shrimphaus to the more even lighting from a Week Aqua S-400 Pro light, I figured let’s give the chrileni another try.

Continue reading “Planting Echinodorus chrileni”

Despite all the advice to the contrary, I tried out some Caridina shrimp in the tapwater-based Shrimphaus.  This did not go well and after 3 weeks there was only one brave survivor left.  The usual way to keep soft water shrimp is to start with reverse-osmosis (RO) water which is selectively remineralised mostly to restore calcium and magnesium (general hardness – GH).  Alkalinity (KH) is usually kept pretty low.  The problem with this approach is that RO equipment can be expensive, takes up a good amount of space, and wastes a lot of water.  There is an interesting RO water supplier, Spotless Water, that has RO water vending stations distributed around England, but there aren’t any in the Cambridgeshire area.  Having RO water shipped in directly isn’t very practical.

What do to about that?

Continue reading “Low alkalinity Shrimphaus”

‘Crystal Red’ caridina shrimp:  top-down view on the edge of the river

Bloody Mary shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) have been living in the Shrimphaus for a couple years now and are starting to get a little long in the tooth.  Their solid dusky red colour also makes them difficult to see against the dark aquasoil and slate hardscape, although the new lighting has helped.  I thought I’d pick up some more brightly coloured newcomers.

Caridina shrimp have interesting colours

Neocaridina come in interesting colours but with caridina shrimp there are more varieties and dramatic patterns.  I was drawn to Crystal Red shrimp – with their solid white colouration and dramatic red stripe they definitely stand out against a dark background.

Continue reading “Caridina shrimp in the Shrimphaus”

I have been using an Asta 20 nano LED light on the Shrimphaus, and that’s been fine but it’s a point source light so there’s not much illumination at either the back (shaded by the river) or the right side (furthest away).  Today I swapped that out for a new Week Aqua S400 Pro aquarium light.

What’s in the box?

Week Aqua S400pro
everything from the box

The S-series comes in three different light lengths:  321mm, 421mm or 471mm.  I went for the middle length S400 model.

You get the light itself with a solid yet lightweight aluminium shell powered through a generous length cord, voltage adaptor and your choice of plug ending.  You also get a milled aluminium mounting bracket with six polypropylene (?) screws to hold it all together.  The light mounts on an aluminium pole which comes with a silicone O-ring to hold the light in place.  Finishing up the package are two plastic zip ties for cord neatness, and a QC control certificate.

You do NOT get any form of instructions either for assembly, mounting or usage.  Fortunately it’s all pretty intuitive how to put it together.

Continue reading “Week Aqua S-series light first impressions”

I have been considering floating plants for a while, but they always looked kind of big and dangly and nasty to me which has put me off.  Then the Aquatic Plant Society had a get together at Aquarium Gardens and I saw this pretty new (to me) much smaller floating plant from TropicaSalvinia minima. I picked up a pot to try it out in the Shrimphaus.

It’s a floating plant, so “planting” Salvinia minima is dead-easy.  Starting with an in vitro pot, you rinse off the media it came with and then I floated it in a bowl of clean water and forked it over into the Shrimphaus.

Continue reading “Planting Salvinia minima”

Riccardia chamedryfolia pieces
Riccardia tissue culture pieces

According to the British Bryological Society (naturally), Riccardia chamedryfolia, also known as ‘Jagged Germanderwort’ is a liverwort with a thalloid growth form and is naturally occurring in most parts of the world including commonly in the UK.  There is a lot more biology-talk about liverworts vs. mosses vs. hornworts that I don’t understand, but I did manage to pick up an in vitro pot grown by Dennerle from Aquarium Gardens and thought I’d give it a try growing on hardscape.  The secret hope is always to find something that will be able to grow in the Shrimphaus river even though many, many plants have failed there.  It turns out that always wet with flowing water slate chippings exposed to typically low humidity indoor air is a quite austere environment.  Still, hope springs eternal and I thought I could try out both the Shrimphaus river and also that wedged into cracks of the Fireplace Aquarium mountain would make a nice effect.

Continue reading “Planting Riccardia chamedryfolia”

Regular and substantial water changes for an aquarium are a good idea.  With EI fertiliser dosing the built-in assumption is that at least 50% of the water will be changed out every week to prevent a build-up of excess fertilisers.  Both the Fireplace Aquarium and the Shrimphaus follow this maintenance schedule, although lately I have been doing around 75% water changes to better remove organic particulate debris from the Fireplace Aquarium and to remove salts from the Shrimphaus.

Pre/post water change parameters

Fireplace AquariumShrimphaus
pHalkalinity (ppm CaCO3)pHalkalinity (ppm CaCO3)
before water change7.852649.01342
immediately after water change7.962768.67306
next day7.752799.03309

Continue reading “Water change effects on alkalinity”

I haven’t had much luck growing plants on the Shrimphaus river.  Mostly they dry out either immediately or eventually, or sometimes they rot away.  This roots and bottom bits wet all the time but leaves out in the air niche is pretty challenging.  Some internet digging revealed plants that thrive in this setting are called marginal plants:  those growing on the margins of bodies of water, and they are popular for people with ponds.  Ok, so that’s the right setting, but outdoor ponds are much larger than the Shrimphaus so only the smallest marginal plants might work.  Some shopping around led me to try Bog Arum (Calla palustris), Golden Buttons (Cotula coronopifolia) and Golden Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’).  All of these are listed as growing to a maximum height of about 6 inches.

The plants arrived well-packed in wet newspaper and the first surprise was how big they all were.  The pond world operates on a much larger scale than the aquarium world!  

Continue reading “Marginal plants”