shrimphaus before rescape
exhausted aquasoil

With the caridina shrimp I’m trying to keep the KH around 30 ppm CaCO3 (about 1.7 dKH) by pre-treating Cambridgeshire tap water with a suitable amount of hydrochloric acid (HCl).  The problem is the old aquasoil has been resisting the new water chemistry.  The other problem is the aquasoil is brown/black and the slate is also dark which makes the whole setup kind of dark and the shrimp challenging to see.  I decided to clear out the old aquasoil and replace the active substrate with inert sand.  This was also a good excuse to see how the shrimp population was doing and to clear out and treat any nasty looking pieces of hardscape.  I also figured the foam pieces in the base of the Shrimphaus that were supposed to act as a kind of passive under-substrate filter were probably not actually doing anything useful, so I took those out.

Sand is better than  aquasoil

Replacing the aquasoil as substrate I decided to go with Hugo Kamishi quartz white sand which I picked up from Aquarium Gardens.  This sand has very uniform sized grains from 0.8 mm to 1.2 mm in size which is considerably smaller than the aquasoil spheres.  One pleasant surprise was how much easier it is to plant plants in sand compared to aquasoil.  With aquasoil it is difficult to get the plant to not spontaneously float up again after you install it.  With the sand though, you grip the plant with pinsettes, drop it down into the sand, swoosh around a small bit to get it settled, and you’re good to go.  The aquasoil was also reasonably “mobile” for whatever reason.  It would roll around and down into the deeper parts of the tank and basically not stay where you put it.  The sand doesn’t seem to do that.  I understand that aquasoil has all kinds of nutrient goodies and buffering capacities… yadda yadda yadda, but I think I’d rather just have direct control over what’s happening in the aquarium water.

If you get sand and want it to be chemically inert, you need to be really sure you’re getting quartz and not for example marble or limestone based sand.  These non-quartz sands can potentially leach carbonate into the water raising the pH and KH.  My advice is spend a little more and get a really nice grade of professional aquascaping quartz sand.  

Shrimp love rocks

I got this great book for Christmas:  The Neocaridina Shrimp Handbook – a comprehensive guide by Richard James.  Most of the info in there I was already pretty familiar with, but one piece got my attention, “The one thing neocaridina shrimp do appear to appreciate is good pile of rocks.”  In his experience, for whatever reason, breeding seems more successful when there is a pile of rocks in the tank.  Something about hiding places for the new hatchlings maybe?  In any event I figured let’s go with some piles of rocks.  I got some Wio ‘black venom gravel’ which is nice rounded pieces, most very dark when wet, and built up a few rockpile areas.  One is between the two slate pillars that hold up the river, and another is on the left size keeping the sand away from the pump and heater.  Wio claims these are “pitch black when wet” which in my experience is not quite true… also the odd piece does have some whitish stripes or patches.  Mostly though they are very nice and contrast well with the white quartz sand.  Do shrimp really love rocks?  Difficult to know although they do spend some time in the rockpiles.  I also buried the airstone under the rocks which keeps the airstone from getting scunged over with algae – the bubbles still make it up through the rocks just fine.

New setup with sand and rocks

I got the old Shrimphaus completely cleaned out.  It was actually not so bad… not nearly as nasty as Shrimphaus 1.0 was when I cleaned that out.  The shrimp seemed to mostly take the relocation in stride.  There were one or two that seemed a little traumatised, but ultimately the move went smoothly with no casualties.

The new setup is very similar to the old setup with two slate pillars to hold up the slate river so water flows up from the bottom back left and across the river to the top front right.

Shrimp-friendly filter

shrimp guard and sponge filter
shrimp guard and sponge filter

I used to have a nylon mesh over the pump intake with the idea of keeping shrimp from inadvertently pulled through the pump.  After a while that didn’t seem necessary so I took it off.  Then I had a crop of baby shrimp that just slowly disappeared and got to wondering whether the pump was a factor.  Just in case I installed some aquarium pump sponge around the pump.  I was concerned the sponge would make the pump too big to fit in the restricted space at the back of the Shrimphaus, but seems no problem.  Unintended, but it also occurs that the sponge will be able to act as a sort of ‘mini filter’ in the style of air-lift sponge filters except instead of using rising bubbles to pull water through the sponge the water pump just does that directly.  I figure it can’t hurt and might help.  We’ll see if it gets all crusted over with debris eventually, but so far so good.

Shrimphaus 3.0

Here’s the new look.  I like it!  The shrimp seem pretty happy as well and I expect (hope?) that not having the substrate influencing the water chemistry will provide more stability which is supposed to be important for shrimp 1.

1 Actually, I’m not really convinced stable water parameters are important for shrimp.  This is the common claim but I haven’t seen much direct evidence.

banded panchax
banded panchax / clown killifish

I picked up some banded panchax, also known as clown killifish, for the Fireplace Aquarium.  The local fish store (LFS) only had four of them and they were all female.  This is because the males have showier fins so mostly that’s what people buy.  Nevermind – I think the females look great.  Friendly LFS person explained you can have a group of females but not a group of males because the males get territorial with each other.  LFS person did NOT explain that banded panchax need soft acidic water… that’s not what we have in Cambridge.  That said, it’s been a couple weeks now and the panchax seem to be doing great.  The water in the Fireplace Aquarium is definitely not soft.  Out of the tap it isn’t acidic either, although the CO2 injection does lower the pH.  I hope they will be ok.

Continue reading “Banded panchax”

Staurogyne repens is an ‘easy to grow’ and popular aquatic plant.  I have been resisting trying this plant for some reason… too easy, too popular?  Anyway, it has a low growth habit but isn’t a carpeting plant, so seems like it might be right for the Shrimphaus.  I usually prefer potted plants, but at the time could only find S. repens as an in vitro pot, so picked one up from Aquarium Gardens, as grown by Tropica.

Continue reading “Planting Staurogyne repens”

Echinodorus Chrileni not doing well
Echinodorus chrileni v1.0 not doing well

Replanting actually…  I was looking for something that could grow submersed in the back right corner of the Shrimphaus that might be able to break the water surface and grow emersed.  Amazon sword plants (Echinodorus species) are sometimes able to do that and I looked for an intermediate sized one with interesting aspects and came up with Echinodorus chrileni.  I first picked up a pot from Pro-shrimp grown in rockwool by Aquafleur about 8 months ago.  The plant arrived in great shape, but then gradually rotted away over several months, with no evidence of transitioning to the submersed growth form.  This was back when I was using the Asta point-source lighting that was at the exact opposite corner of the tank so the spot for the chrileni was pretty shaded.  When I switched over the Shrimphaus to the more even lighting from a Week Aqua S-400 Pro light, I figured let’s give the chrileni another try.

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aquasoil

Aquasoil (there are various brands and types) is “an active bottom layer that lowers the pH value and slightly affects the water chemistry“.  One aspect is to slowly leach out fertiliser into the water column over time.  How about that ‘lowers the pH’ piece?  One way would be to have the aquasoil directly add acid to the water but that wouldn’t last very long.  Instead it is thought (although not published – trade secret) the aquasoil has an element of being an ion exchange matrix.  This means there are charged surfaces on the aquasoil that can be pre-loaded with either positively charged (cations) or negatively charged (anions) molecules.  These ions are slowly ‘exchangeable’ with ions of similar charge from the water column.  For pH lowering purposes, the aquasoil would need to come pre-charged with H+ ions, possibly in the form of ammonium (NH4+), which can be exchanged for calcium (Ca++) or magnesium (Mg++) from the water column.  The net effect would be to soften the water (removing Ca++/Mg++), add nitrogen based fertiliser (the ammonium) and to lower the pH of the water.  All three of these effects are thought to be beneficial in a planted aquarium.

Continue reading “Aquasoil and water chemistry”

Recently following a heavy rain one of the residual current breakers (RCD) on the main breaker box of the house tripped and could not be reset which took down half of the lighting and almost all of the wall sockets.  I strung up a network of extension leads to the one remaining live socket (for the cooker) to keep power to the fridge/freezer and the boiler.  What about the critters?  I strung another lead through to power on the Shrimphaus to keep the new caridina shrimp happy with water flow, oxygenation and light.  So far so good – call the electrician.  Meanwhile, lets get the internet back on (check) and probably good to sort the Fireplace Aquarium as well.  Connecting the powerbar for the Fireplace Aquarium immediately trips the RCD on the cooker socket circuit, taking down most of the rest of the power to the house.

Continue reading “Electrics in a fireplace”

Despite all the advice to the contrary, I tried out some Caridina shrimp in the tapwater-based Shrimphaus.  This did not go well and after 3 weeks there was only one brave survivor left.  The usual way to keep soft water shrimp is to start with reverse-osmosis (RO) water which is selectively remineralised mostly to restore calcium and magnesium (general hardness – GH).  Alkalinity (KH) is usually kept pretty low.  The problem with this approach is that RO equipment can be expensive, takes up a good amount of space, and wastes a lot of water.  There is an interesting RO water supplier, Spotless Water, that has RO water vending stations distributed around England, but there aren’t any in the Cambridgeshire area.  Having RO water shipped in directly isn’t very practical.

What do to about that?

Continue reading “Low alkalinity Shrimphaus”

‘Crystal Red’ caridina shrimp:  top-down view on the edge of the river

Bloody Mary shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) have been living in the Shrimphaus for a couple years now and are starting to get a little long in the tooth.  Their solid dusky red colour also makes them difficult to see against the dark aquasoil and slate hardscape, although the new lighting has helped.  I thought I’d pick up some more brightly coloured newcomers.

Caridina shrimp have interesting colours

Neocaridina come in interesting colours but with caridina shrimp there are more varieties and dramatic patterns.  I was drawn to Crystal Red shrimp – with their solid white colouration and dramatic red stripe they definitely stand out against a dark background.

Continue reading “Caridina shrimp in the Shrimphaus”

Anubias Barteri 'Mini Coin'
‘Mini Coin’ on the mountain

It’s been a challenge to find an epiphyte that looks good on the mountain.  I tried Anubias nana ‘Snow White’ which failed to grow, and the similar Anubias nana ‘Pinto’ which grew fine but looked too big for the nanotank.  Also in the mix was Bucephalandra caterina which grew well and kind of resembled a sombrero hat after it really got going, and Anubias barteri nana ‘Pangolino’ which was more rhizome than decorative leaves.  Now I’m having a go with Anubias Barteri ‘Mini Coin’ which I sourced from Java Plants (a new vendor for me).  After the great epiphyte tear-out of last year there was prime epiphyte real estate available on the mountain. Continue reading “Planting Anubias barteri ‘Mini Coin’”

Dennerle Carbo Test Precision
Dennerle Carbo Test Precision

I picked up a new drop checker from Dennerle – the Carbo Test Precision, sold by Real Aquatics.  This drop checker comes in three different sizes.  I got the small 20 mm version which actually surprised me by how small it turned out to be.  This checker is different because instead of having a hanging tear-drop shape, this one is spherical and has a white plastic tube embedded in the middle providing an opening to the bottom.  The idea here is that the drop checker solution can easily be viewed against the white background of the filling tube which provides a more consistent reading than all-glass checkers where you’re always looking at the colour of the solution against a background of something else.

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